The Costume of Dayung Bisingai

After many years of witnessing ethnic pageants I would say ethnic costumes of different ethnicity would have different versions and styles based on its locality. However, particularly with the modernisation of fashion itself and trend, the "originality" of such ethnic costumes might be stripped off due to over accessorising of the costumes. As years go by, with the many "add ons" being added to the costumes, the younger generation are now confused on even with the basic knowledge of wearing their ethnic costumes. 

As for me, Ngepan Iban consists of many accessories depending on the area of the ngepan. However, no matter how different it may be from each other, the costumes should at least display basic accessories and extra accessories should be adorned with caution so much so that it would not make the ngepan look like a Christmas tree or even offend others (especially the elders) because of incorrect usage of accessories due to taboo.  

Ms. Mia Saches is one of my Facebook friend who I always noticed that she really always emphasise on the correct way to way the Bidayuh costume. I came across one of the posts recently with her wearing the Dayung Bisingai or Woman of Singai costume to an event in Sarawak. 

I proposed to her that I would like to feature her view in the Dayung Bisingai costume and the basic way to wear it since posts on Facebook might simply 'disappear' in the archive and only to be reminded of it once the anniversary comes. I am glad that she agreed to share her knowledge with me and I hope I explained well in this blog of mine. 

Furthermore, it is the aspiration of Ms. Mia that she wants to see younger Bidayuh generation to know and understand not just their costume but their culture too. 

She wants them to accept their costume just the way it is  with no mix and matching. When all of these have been achieved, only then the Bidayuh costume can reach and "established"status like ngepan Iban.

Anyway, before we move on with our post for today, let me introduce to you Ms. Mia Saches:

Name: Angelina Hermia Charles Saches

Race: Bidayuh (Biperoh: Dad + Bisingai: Mother)

Lives in Kuching

She has been the jury for Dayung Sikora & Bujang Pogan REDEEMS Siingai 2015 and Dayung Gawea Tematu 2016.

Ms. Mia Saches in her simple Dayung Bisingai costume

Like where is Singai? The book "Singai Unveiled" would be a good source for you to know more about Singai area. 

Finally, we come to the part where we learn a thing or two about the costume of Dayung Bisingai. 

A DAYAK BIDAYUH COMMUNITY RITUALS, CEREMONIES & FESTIVALS
 (Patrick Rigep Nuek)

Ms. Mia showed me one of her reference is this book written by Mr. Patrick Rigep Nuek entitled "A DAYAK BIDAYUH COMMUNITY RITUALS, CEREMONIES & FESTIVALS" where it briefly explained the usage of accessories in the Bidayuh costume.

"Around her waist she would wear 'porik' (strings of silver tiny chains about 7.5cm in width), rawai (formed of tiny rolls of silver) and 'bokos kupuong (a silver belt). She would also wear bangles on both wrists, usually of solid silver, called 'gorang suat boid'. - page 59

"Around their waist were worn a number of ornamental belts and other decorations. Different kinds of silver belt included the 'bokos kupuong' and the 'porik'. A 'rawai' was created from small coils of silver arranged in such a way that they formed a belt about 10cm in width. Joining the front opening of their 'bojuh' tops was a linked series of silver brooches called 'krusang'. 'Krabu' (earrings) and 'sinuod' (a comb made of animal bone) were also worn, along with other jewellery. - page 226 & 228

The Headgear is called "Bojuh"

It is said that the "Bojuh" is adorned as a headgear in order to protect the 'soul' of the Dayung Boris. Particularly, it is to protect the soul from escaping or "tidak hilang" or "kalah semangat" when they are in the state of trance while performing the ritual. In contrast with bojuh, a sipiah would be worn as the normal Bidayuh headgear.

Sipiah (front view)

Sipiah (back view)

Earrings called "Krabu"

The earrings are made out of old coins and the normally do not wear beaded earrings.

The early attires of the Bidayuh were made from materials obtained from the jungle. This evidence can be seen by their bangles made out of rattan called "Jaka", "Stotoh" made out of rattan and the 'bone' of a fern called stotoh.

Jaka made from rattan

The brown colored material is the 'bone' of the fern, the white piece is rattan

Besides bangles made from jungle sourced materials, they too have the bangle made out of steel which is called "Gorang Suat Boid".

Gorang Suat Boid

Next, we move on to the bodice part of the costume. 

The necklaces adorned is called "Pangieh" which is beaded necklace designed with common Bidayuh patterns and colours. Normally, one one pangieh is sufficient. The longer necklace worn across the left shoulder to right is called "Sombon". Sombon is made out of round glass beads in dark green and dark blue called "rikis browan" with  some stringing of wildboar's fangs and old bells.

Pangieh and Sombon

Old "Krusang"

"Krusang" is basically a metal brooch stringed in three tier and it is one of the rarest items that can be found nowadays. 

Sirapai

"Sirapai" or the red sash is worn together at the bodice and normally a sirapai for the female would be fancier in its design as compared to the male sirapai. 

The belts

If you are to refer the photo above, the Bisingai costume would have an array of different metal belts adorned on their waists. Based on the photo from top to bottom, the belts are "Bokos Kupuong", then "Rawai"(formed of tiny rolls of silver) and finally "Porik" (strings of silver tiny chains about 7.5cm in width). 

Jomuh Proras

The significant black skirt designed with silver, gold lace and red fabric is called "Proras Jomuh". Sometimes it can also be further adorned with bells and coins depending on the creativity of the designer.

Gorang Po on

Bidayuh ladies of Bisingai do not wear silver anklet like the Iban ladies, instead they wear anklet made out of stringed brass bell called "Gorang Po on" (note: the pronunciation and name of this accessory might differ from one place to another, after comments in the FB we take it as gorang po on). 

So, there you go, the costume of Dayung Bisingai of Bau, Sarawak. Yes, it is definitely way different from the ngepan Iban. I believe that even if a costume might be simple it should not be adorned with unnecessary accessories in order to make it more beautiful. 

This is my first feature on costumes of different ethnicity and I would love to feature your ethnic costume if you are willing to share with me the input just like how Ms. Mia shared with me. In our opinion, this is the time to educate and enlighten the younger generation, if not now, then when?  

Finally, I would like to thank again Ms. Mia Saches and the rest of my Facebook friends who contributed their ideas for this post. Photo credit to Ms. Mia.

BHF, 9 Years and Going...

Borneo Hornbill Festival has always been my muse ever since joining its pageant six years back in 2011. Why is it my muse?

First of all, it has always inspired me to do more exploring, digging, seeking on what is Iban all about. The fact that there are many pageants in Sarawak, to-date I think that Borneo Hornbill Festival is the only one that tasks their contestants to do research only any topic that is related to their roots and yes, present it during the indoor judging. Whereas, many other pageants would just be, at the most explaining about the costumes being worn and displaying it to the judges and viewers, and finally the question and answer session.

Old Folklore from Bidayuh Biatah tribe

An Old Baju Burik

That is how the indoor judging looks like,
quite intimidating, no?

Young team of indoor judging judges from various backgrounds and ethnicity

This year’s BHF had opened my eyes as one of the indoor judges on the art of Tuak making and also creating new variety of tuak by combining it with different ingredients in order to have a more unique taste of tuak, for an example by adding the “kelulut” honey or the honey from the stingless bee. One of the contestants from Sabah displayed her costume from the 1940s and the history behind it besides playing the bamboo flute as her talent. 

Research on Tuak Kelulut

Research on traditional clothing of Dusun Tindal Tribe

How about the art of making Nuba Laya? Yes, one of the finalists’ presentation was about the history of the Lunbawang people and she demonstrated to us on how to make Nuba Laya or rice wrapped in a special leaf which is native to the Lunbawang people. Of course being not a Lunbawang I would only know how to eat Nuba Laya but not how to make it, and that is my friends that makes Borneo Hornbill Festival being unique from any other pageants held in Sabah and Sarawak.

The Making of Nuba Laya

Presentation on Kelingai Iban (Iban Tattoo)

Baju Burik costume (Iban Kapit Tribe)

This brings to the second reason on why BHF has always been my muse; to see the younger generation preserve their age old culture by bringing them back to life. Most of the indigenous traditional knowledge have become almost unheard of or even extinct due to the word globalization and its relevance to the current world. There is nothing wrong to discover what history was because history is what shapes the future. I myself would not want my children to not know what a “ngepan” (Iban traditional costume) is, or how our forefathers came up with Iban law of Tusun Tunggu. Law, culture, clothing, food are among the components that created the society at that time and to understand how people live long time ago would create the awareness on how we behave now. Therefore, I really love watching the younger generation contestants who presented their research and relate it to our current life.

Finally, having given the opportunity to speak to the younger generation contestants gives me the inspiration to be more open to accept their ideas and perspective in traditional culture because this is the platform where we can share ideas of the traditional knowledge and create something creative and new in order to make it more relevant without leaving behind the root of the original idea of the traditional knowledge. Most of the contestants of BHF are eager to share their knowledge just that what makes one more outstanding than the other is on how deep their understanding of the subject. So, the more you read and research, the more you understand and up to my fifth year of being one of the judges I can roughly gauge who did their research well and sincere enough to show the knowledge.

Giving moral support to especially those who never joined pageants in their life

As BHF bids adieu every year there will always be unhappy spectators or even contestants. Most of the time they would blame the organizer and the judges for not choosing their favourite, but do they know the organiser’s criteria or objective of this event being held at the first place? That is the question that you need to answer before giving rants of unsatisfactory and negative thoughts. Yes, we might be a young team of judges, we do make mistakes but we try to be stronger by learning from the mistakes.

A beautiful contestant may wear the winning costume but is it enough to make her as the Kumang? That is for that contestant herself to answer and for us to see, whether she is well equipped with the knowledge of her subject matter of that traditional knowledge, whether she is sincere enough to present it or it is just a matter of winning a title and not contributing to the community after that. "Tepuk dada tanya selera".

I wish all the best to the London Qualifiers of BHF 2017, may you shine bright in London and show the best of what you are.

Male London Qualifiers 
RICKY NEL FRANK ,JOSHUA IMAN, NIGEL MARUDIN, ANDY CHUNG

Female London Qualifiers
ODLEEN CATHERNY, ANGELA MARIA FRANK, MARGARET ANTHONY & OLIVVA KUSMAS

Photo Credit to Mr. Anderson Kalang, Mr Paren Nyawi, Mr. Ricky Racha' Kimwah & BHF FB Page. 

Bala Indu Bengepan

Bala Indu Bengepan 

(Pelilih menua pegai Betong enggau Saratok)

Indai aku Madam Sylvia Sayah

Bala petunggal aku siku ke nama Bibi Tera lumur dua ari kanan

Bala Indu bengepan nya udu lawa. Ba sanggul sida diujakka sugu tinggi pirak belilap ti dilagu enggau bunga keretas. Pending sida Dara kering ditating antin panjai ti merundai ngagai tuntun dagu ngilah pun rang. Janga kedua-dua bau kiba enggau kanan dilempaika selampai panjai ti dibelit sandik kandi ke kiba enggau ke kanan sereta lalu ngelamun buah dada. Ujung panjai selampai panjai nya dipelawik lalu besabung ujung ba urung tengan belakang. 

Marik empang di beukir mayuh macham sereta berambutka bunga rambu dirasukka ba urung rekung lalu mungkur kedua-dua janga bau sereta ngebap engkepan dada nyekang. Ba ruas lengan ari aras buku siku, dirasukka engkerimuk betusuk ngagai pun berang. Tumpa pirak dirasukka ari dekuan sampai ke buah lengan nyau berak-berak terang. Rawai dipasukka nyengkerung perut enggau punggung lalu nyakum kerigai ari atas rusuk marang. Singkap duit ringgit tauka nyawir ti lekat ba rawai nya bekekelip baka bintang. 

Kain kebat tauka kain sungkit benang emas ti dikena nya betatingka singkap duit ringgit ti nyau bekesering dibai sida Endun Kumang nyingkang. Ba engkepan punggung nanggam kain nya lampit bepala besai ditambit rapit nadai meranggang. Jari kiba sida Dara Nganta ngenggam perecha diberi sida Aya Mawa Dum Bujang. Jari kanan sida Dara Ganggam minching sigi buah paul begamal melan-melan. Nyengkilung rekung lalu merundai ngagai urung dada nya tali rantai pirak panjai ti disebut tali luji. 

Ba urung rakat ari atas buku ali kedua-dua piak kai dirasukka gelang dikumbai kerunching ti bisi disangkingka gerunung mit.

Ari Bup Ripih Pengawa Gawai Antu

ditusun Jantan Umbat & Janang Anak Ensiring

The Tun Jugah Foundation Publication Series

Gambar ari koleksi keluarga

An Experience to to be Treasured, Pekit Kumang/Keling Raban Ngepan Iban Peringkat Negeri Sarawak 2017

First of all, I would like to thank Mr. Steven Abas Anak Patrick Agus also known as Mimi Helmi for inviting me to be as one of the panel jury for the competition. I would like to also congratulate his Raban Ngepan Iban team for organising this event successfully on 8 April 2017 at Meritz Hotel, Miri, Sarawak.

Since 2013, I have been part of the judging team for Borneo Hornbill Festival in Kuala Lumpur and this is the first time that I was given a heavy responsibility as the Head Jury for the Kumang category for this year's Pekit Kumang/Keling Raban Ngepan Iban Peringkat Negeri Sarawak which is outside of my comfort zone. I was relieved to find that I would be judging something which I am familiar with but boy, I tell you it is way bigger than I expected. There were 10 panel of jury including me for the night. They came from various lines of experience and background; from master of Iban culture to the most junior of the Borneo Hornbill Festival alumni. 

I was left in awe especially with the display of costumes by all the finalists that were only focus on the Iban ethnicity. Next, the evaluation of each finalist was as intense as it gets particularly on the question and answer session that focuses on the traditional Iban law and culture. 

Miss Malaysia Pageant was responsible in doing the live coverage and till date the event (posted on Miss Malaysia Pageant Facebook Page) has 20k views, 1.4k "likes", "love" and 540 shares. The link to the "live" feed can be found at their FB page dated 8 April 2017. 

I would like to share some of the photos taken during the competition for your viewing pleasure. Photos are credit to MMP and also Puan Diana Kidang.

The panel jury for RNI 2017

Indoor judging

BHF ALUMNI

Junior Kumangs

Former RNI 2016 Queen Ms. Agnes Berangan Jilum

Head Jury for Keling Category, Mr. Edmond Rintai

Kumang, Ms Sherry Oliam

Keling RNI 2017, Mr Adriel Nyawai

Thank you RNI!

Pekit Kumang KelingSerakup Raban Ngepan Iban2017: 

Final Results 

Kumang RNI 2017:
4th Runner Up: Racheal Freddy Woodford (KAPIT)
3rd Runner Up: Viviana Jimbun (SRI AMAN)
2nd Runner Up: Roseda Ancha (MIRI)
1st Runner Up: Nisya Sukri (SARATOK)
Winner: Sherry Oliam (NIAH)

Keling RNI 2017:
4th Runner Up: Johanathan (BINTULU)
3rd Runner Up: Fabian William (KAPIT)
2nd Runner Up: Augusteen Dauglas (KANOWIT)
1st Runner Up: Ron Lloyd Albert Jingga (SARATOK)
Winner: Adriel Nyawai Robin (MIRI)

Congratulations!

I am quite sure in any competitions there will be some party who will not be satisfied with the result. Try to be in the panel of jury's shoes and choose the rightful winner; the person who meets the criteria of a Kumang and Keling to be the ambassadors of RNI and the future generation of the Iban community. "Kalah menang adat pertandingan, kalau gagal pada kali ini, jangan putus asa, cubalah sekali lagi". 

In my opinion, culture based competition such as like this should be continued and promoted so as to educate the younger generation that our culture is precious and unique to others. 

Finally, I would like to thank from the bottom of my heart to Mimi Helmi, Raban Ngepan Iban and also the new friends whom I met particularly the panel of jury...."Agi belala ka begulai enggau bala kita, betemu kitai baru ila". Majulah budaya majulah bansa...ooohhhaaaa....

What does it take to be Kumang Iban Borneo Hornbill Festival?

What does it take to be Kumang Iban Borneo Hornbill Festival?

Personally, after being in the Borneo Hornbill Festival family for five years, I see that this event grew from a merely simple get together avenue among young Sarawakians to showcase their costumes and culture into something bigger in which to show to the vast public including the foreign viewers the in-depth showcase of culture sharing from both Sabah and Sarawak.  

Eversince being crowned the Kumang Iban Borneo Hornbill Festival in 2011, I felt that I have the responsibility to give back to the community by sharing my knowledge in Iban costume though not that expert but I believe I can enhance that knowledge along the way. To me, being given the title is not merely having the glamourous limelight of being called a once “Kumang”, no, that title does not work that way. Kumang as most of the Iban would know as the legendary Mother Goddess of Iban who possessed the top most quality of a woman apart from her prowess skills in weaving pua kumbu. She was also depicted as having a good heart and of course of exceptional beauty.

However, in this modern day not many Iban women are able to weave pua kumbu or even weave mats because I too do not have such talents to be frank. So what is the relevance of Kumang in this era then? That is what the objective of Borneo Hornbill Festival is all about. This future Kumang must be able to embrace her culture in which through her research in any sect of the Iban culture, be it Iban costume, adat, tusun tunggu, food, ngajat etc. Her research will show that she is passionate about what she is, an Iban blood and heart. 

Eversince the ngepan Rawai Tinggi emerged at the Borneo Hornbill Festival 2011, only then people become more interested in knowing the roots of the costume and lo and behold even more Iban ngepan from other Iban sects, Batang Ai, Batang Rajang, Julau, Kapit, Entulu just to name a few. Borneo Hornbill Festival became the platform for these Ngepan as not many of these “unknown” costumes were showcased in Sarawak. In this event contestants are given the opportunity to present their researches not forgetting their costumes, presentation skills, catwalk, beauty, congeniality and discipline. 

What about beauty then? Well my dear contestants, I would say beauty is a bonus because a beautiful face with a rotten heart will lead you to nowhere as physical beauty will not last forever, beautiful face will only stay in photographs, but beautiful heart does bring you a long way.  Beauty is subjective anyway and no one in this world should be judge whether a person is beautiful or not, chubby or thin, tall or short and if you do you are also questioning God’s creation of creating various range of race, colour, sizes etc. 

I must say that when I was one of the contestants of the 2011 Borneo Hornbill Festival I was neither the prettiest nor a catwalk model (I don’t even know how to catwalk!). I was just a 28 year old who just want to try her luck in a pageant and not wanting to live in the “what if” moment. I just wanted to try and experience how it feels to be in a pageant. Apart from that I wanted to see how far I can go after participating in this competition. 

Of course elaborate research was done for my costume hence I wore the ngepan Rawai Tinggi of the Saribas tribe as it was never been showcased before. I also brushed up my knowledge on tourism and culture as that was one of the segments that we were being tested at. Throughout my journey of extracting information about the ngepan as well as my culture I began to realize there is potential in this field, whereby the information on this ngepan Rawai Tinggi cannot just stop at BHF, it should go beyond that. Hence exist my blog Kumang Saribas, This is My Story blog page, surprisingly never could I have imagined that it would become source of reference for some viewers including by contestants of BHF and I thank you for such support and with that encouragement it gives me more inspiration to do more for my community. 

In conclusion, not that I want to discourage you from entering this competition but if you are thinking of being glamourous after winning in Borneo Hornbill Festival, then you are confused. BHF is not Miss World or Miss Universe where looks play important part in winning other than your confidence. BHF requires you to research your culture and embrace it until it is within your blood. From there we can see your confidence will show through a confident presentation of your research, not merely memorizing the accessories on your ngepan. 

Remember, catwalk can be taught and polished, appearance can be altered with make-up but humility and kindness towards others will make you the person whom people love and remember you by. 

With Love, 

Kumang Iban Borneo Hornbill Festival 2011

Who will be crowned the next Miss Sarawak Ethnic Iban Category 2016?

It seems that the years flew by so fast that Borneo Hornbill Festival is going to be organising its 8th Edition of pageantry with the tagline THE GR8 Road to London BHF 2016. 

Now, it has gone through a long haul of adventure and culture findings for the past few years. We learnt different costumes of different culture even from different era and sub-ethnicity. More and more "mini researches" being done by the contestants that became an eye opener to all of us. 

I missed last year's Borneo Hornbill Festival as I gave birth to my own Kumang in the making my little Eleanor Lempa. So I hope I am able to see the spectacular presentation of my Borneo culture this year. 

Borneo Hornbill Festival made a great impact on me as it became the platform where I showcased my rare Ngepan Rawai Tinggi thanks to BHF's concept in competition in showcasing the costumes of yester years. Not only it gives the liberty of portraying such, it also gave the emphasise of nature conservation and other aspects of culture such as food, music, tourism, games etc. 

So, who will be crowned as the next Miss Sarawak Ethnic Iban Category? Well, auditions are happening now...who knows IT COULD BE YOU?    

Who wil be crowned the next Miss Sarawak Ethnic Iban Category?

Sa, Dua, Tiga, Empat, Lima, Nam, Tuuujuuuhhhhh.......

Seven is the lucky number for Borneo Hornbill Festival this year as it celebrates its 7th Year of establishment in promoting Borneo to the public. One great success of Borneo Hornbill Festival is that it has created many confident young talents who are now considered as successful in their own way.

The pageantry began in 2009 was done in a small scale compared to the newer generation of BHF starting from 2012. It began with just ethnics in Sarawak and in 2012 Borneo Hornbill Festival spread its wings to our neighbour Sabah by introducing our first Runduk Tadau competition for Sabah female. Now the Borneo Hornbill Festival has become a bigger event in Kuala Lumpur's calender as more publicity and exposure of this event has been made be it through social media or word of mouth. 

Borneo Hornbill Festival plays a significant role in the Borneo community particularly within the Sabahan and Sarawakian community here in Kuala Lumpur as it acts as the platform of networking for people from various ethnicity, age and creed. 

As the former winner of the Borneo Hornbill Festival 2011, I have the responsibility (yes until now despite of being married and pregnant too) to promote and explain to my non-Borneo friends what Sarawak is about particularly and Borneo generally. I had a very good experience joining BHF despite being among the more "senior" group age than others but all was for the good. I gained more confidence and also courage to face the public. 

As you have heard on seen on Borneo Hornbill Festival's page...the online voting is still on and have you voted for your favourite?

Here is the link for the online voting and the highest vote of each category will get an automatic place at the grand finals...well who doesn't want that right?

Miss Borneo Ethnic 2015 candidates 

Mister Borneo Ethnic 2015 candidates 

Voting ends this weekend so be fast.....kayuh kayuh perahu for your favourites ya!

And as for me I would always feature this so-called "Wall of Fame" of Kumang Iban BHF starting from my lovely Senior Ms. Nelly Sengalang Kumang Iban 2009...

Okay that's all for now.....All the best candidates BHF candidates!