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Wednesday, 28 September 2011

Kumang Iban of Various Tribes hence Various Costumes....

Dikelala kaban ari ngepan.....(translation: a tribe is known by their costumes)

Despite of the hectic schedule preparing for my engagement day I did manage to squeeze in some time to visit the Tun Jugah Foundation to see with my own eyes the personal collection of Iban antiques particularly the “ngepan Indu Iban”. As I have mentioned “personal collection” of the Foundation, therefore photographs are NOT allowed to be taken. So bear with me if most of the photos are “recycled” from my previous posts so as to respect the Foundation’s rule and regulation as well as their sensitivities. 

Basically, ngepan Indu Iban differs from one tribe to another and mainly geographically influenced and also based on the trading trends in the olden days e.g. tribes located near the Baram area would be using more beads compared to those in Saribas area and the usage of metal is due to Chinese merchants coming in bringing accessories of such metals to the Borneo Island. 

So, from my visit to the Tun Jugah Foundation, what I found is that there are a few versions of ngepan Indu Iban as follows: (note: based on Tun Jugah Foundation’s description).

1)        The “modern” version of ngepan Indu
Origin: Saribas/Saratok
Accesories:
a)      Sugu tinggi berensuga/belilap (colourful decorated silver headgear)
b)      Marik empang (colourful collar)
c)       Kain Karap or kain kebat  (pua kumbu woven skirt)
d)      Lampit (silver belt)
e)      Rawai (silver corset)
f)       Tumpa pirak (silver bangles)
g)      Gelang kaki (anklets)
h)      Buah pauh (orb shaped silver purse)

My Mummy, a Saratokian
 
2)        Baju Ringgit
Origin: Skrang area
Accesories:
a)         Sugu tinggi (silver headgear)
b)        Baju ringgit (a costume made from pure silver coins)
c)         Kain Karap or kain kebat  (pua kumbu woven skirt)
d)        Lampit (silver belt)
e)        Rawai (silver corset)
f)          Tumpa pirak (silver bangles)
g)         Gelang kaki (anklets)
h)        Buah pauh (orb shaped silver purse)

a lady wearing baju ringgit
 
3)        Baju Kuas
Origin: The Balau Tribe, Sri Aman
Accesories:
a)         Sugu tinggi
b)        Baju kuas (velvet top with sequins)
c)         Kain Karap or kain kebat  (pua kumbu woven skirt)
d)        Lampit (silver belt)
e)        Rawai (silver corset)
f)          Tumpa pirak (silver bangles)
g)         Gelang kaki (anklets)

Notice the black velvet collar?
4)        Baju Dujung Marik
Origin:  Kapit
Accesories:
a)         Dujung Marik (a cap/headgear decorated with seed beads, brass buttons bells and woollen threads) – compare with sugu tinggi
b)        Baju Marik (a beaded blouse made from Venetian glass beads of various colours)
c)         Kain Karap or kain kebat  (pua kumbu woven skirt)
d)        Tali ujan (a short train hung at the back of the baju Marik, also made from glass beads)
e)        Tumpa bulu (wristlet made from the sap of the Bulu tree species) – compare with tumpa pirak
f)          Gelang giring (heavy pair of huge brass anklets) – compare with gelang kaki pirak

Baju Marik, the head gear is called "dujung marik" the bangles are called "Tumpa Bulu"


This is something that I saw attached to the back of the dujung marik costume made from glass

the heavy brass anklets are the accessories for Kapit Iban tribe and they're called "Gelang Giring" 
 
5)        Baju Buri
Origin:  Kapit
Accesories:
a)         Deep red long sleeved cotton top decorated with cowrie shells (buri) and white buttons (buri belanda)
b)        Kain Buri (Black cotton skirt decorated with cowrie shells which were brought by early traders to Borneo)

Baju Buri


6) Ngepan Julau
    Origin: Julau

Significance in the way they wear their selampai where the "tail" is at the front instead of back.




If only I can take photos of the exact costumes..but this is what I manage to present to my readers...we have to respect the owner's wishes...

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Ok, this post more or less answer my question on perengka ngepan indu. Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Dini endor meli perengka ngepan nyak?

Ba Lubok Antu ngau Selalang?