Old Iban Ngepan Making Their Comeback

Thanks to Borneo Hornbill Festival the younger generation of Iban knows the existence of almost extinct ngepan Iban (Iban costume).

Now even the older generation begins to value of culture by sharing such information to the younger generation. In this post I would like to highlight the “comeback” of the old Iban ngepan. I guess old is the “in” thing at the moment as what people say that “Old is Gold”….

1)      Ngepan Rawai tinggi

     -   I realized the existence of this ngepan through my reading of books written by English writer, namely Rev. Edwin H. Gomes. This book enlightened me on the ngepan Iban worn by the women of Saribas tribe.

    -   The ngepan would consist of the rawai tinggi (high corset), kain kebat as the skirt (ikat technique pua kumbu which is made into a skirt) and other accessories like tumpa (bangles), lampit pirak (silver belts), sugu tinggi (the headgear made of silver) gerunchong kaki (anklets) etc. 

2)      Ngepan Marik / Ngepan Dujung Marik)

    -   The uniqueness of this ngepan is that from the material that makes the costume i.e. colourful glass beads for the “baju ujan” and also the head gear which is called dujung marik. In the olden days, ngepan Marik or some people would call ngepan dujung marik are meant for brides. The skirt is called kain buri/kain burik i.e. velvet sewn with cowrie shells into intricate and beautiful designs.   This ngepan was significant in Kapit area.

3)     Ngepan Lampit Tusu

     -   This ngepan is worn in the Batang Ai, Engkelili, Lubuk Antu area. It is called ngepan lampit tusu as the two silver belts or lampit pirak is worn cris-crossing the breasts. This ngepan is famous as it shows the beauty of silver accessories on an Iban women those days.

4)      Ngepan Ringgit

      -  Ngepan ringgit is worn in the Skrang area. The word “ringgit” means coins hence this ngepan is full of coins linked to each other to form a dress or part of a dress.

There you go the old ngepan making their comeback and I bet they will be here to stay if the younger generation relives the tradition and embrace them like water and air.

When Keling Meets Kumang

Iban costume for your pre-wedding photoshoot, why not?
 
Ooooohhhhhaaaa......

We had our pre-wedding photoshoot on 4 March 2012 at the Sarawak Cultural Village, Kuching, Sarawak.(for more information on SCV click here) 

Petara was so kind to us that the he gave a beautiful and not so hot weather and the SCV staff was also very kind in helping us to dress and cheap rental of costume for my fiance. Our location was mainly the Iban longhouse, the waterfall behind the Penan hut and the Orang Ulu long house.

The photoshoot was done by Andy Phe (Andy's work is here), assisted by my brother Nielsen-Nikki and Johnney's brother, Homery Pungga. None would be realised if it was not for their big help. The duration of the photoshoot was roughly about 6 hours, it took quite a while as tourists were also taking our hotos in the middle of the photoshoot (could have charged them for RM1, haha).

We wanted it to be different, more meaningful and special by having it in our Iban costume surrounded with nature and all things that relates to Iban. It was a worthwhile project for both of us and I hope our children will know how Iban costume looks like and remind them of this beautiful culture. This is also a tribute to Kumang and Keling...

So these are among my favourite shots taken by my brother, Andy's photos will only be posted after my wedding...Meanwhile, enjoy our photos:

Waterfall behind the Penan hut

We were tourist attraction

At the Iban long house

Rawai Tinggi

Rawai Tinggi Revisited

Some of you might wonder what is a rawai? Basically rawai is a corset and traditionally for the Iban tribe rawai is either made of silver or brass. Rawai can be classified into different sizes too mainly rawai pandak (low corset) and rawai tinggi (high corset).

The rawai that I used for Borneo Hornbill Festival was Rawai Tinggi made of brass and rattan. It measures from chest to waist and weighs around 4 kilos without being adorned with other accessories. At the moment my rawai is being repaired and for today's post it would feature the processes that you can see in repairing a rawai.

I have my brother to repair the rawai and it is a very tedious work indeed, from thinning the rattan strips, to measuring each levels of the brass rings, taking out the brass rings to replace the new rattan strips etc. Rather than explaining the process in writing, let us view the photos, hope they might help:

the tools and materials

rawai pandak as the "donor"

 * a donor is used to replace the insufficient brass rings of my rawai tinggi.

brass rings from the donor

rattan strips

stainless steel strips

you measure

insert the brass rings to the new rattan strips

make sure you clip the ends

put back the new brass strips

Can't wait for my reinforced rawai tinggi..hope to wear it for my wedding...until we meet again in different post.

...and this is Indu Dara Insin Temaga for the first time since 1966...

How did it began….my friend Susan Leo showed me an SMS that she got on the Kumang and Keling Borneo Hornbill Festival 2011 contest. It was an event organised by Persatuan Warisan Sarawak Kuala Lumpur. I was quite reluctant to enter this contest as mum never encourages me to do so ever since I was a student. After one persuasion to another by Susan finally yeah why not…after all I’m still within the age limit and it is one way to pursue my dream to embrace Iban culture more extensively.

My photoshoot for the online voting

Good thing that I got the news two weeks before Gawai and this was an opportunity for me to do some research within short period of time…Now we zoom to Kuching….My brother Nielsen-Nikki was my driver all throughout this adventure. Among the places that we went to:
1)        Antique shops around main bazaar (Waterfront Kuching);
2)        Sarawak Museum (Ethnology Museum);
3)        Sarawak Museum (the bookshop at the Main museum building);
4)        Textile Museum (opposite Old Kuching Post Office);
5)        Pasar Satok (Satok weekend market);
6)        My uncle’s house.



The research did not just stop there, internet, asking people around (and yes you need “muka tebal” / thick skin to ask), grabbing photos from every source that I can think of and Facebook. I also came to a point where there were too many information that I received that I got myself confused. So me and Susan discussed via the net on which style of costume that I should wear.
 

My Mum, Mdm Sylvia Sayah Tangai

Since I am from Saratok, Betong, by right I should portray Indu Dara Insin Temaga, a Kumang wearing the RAWAI TINGGI. No women since the modern Kumang Gawai being introduced in 1966 wore a rawai tinggi before as Kumang Gawai competition focuses more on the “official ngepan” which mainly consist the “marek empang” or “tango” (the colorful beaded accessory that an Iban woman wear around her neck) to complete the look apart from kain karap (skirt), the sugu tinggi (head dress), tumpa pirak (bracelets), lampit (silver belt), rawai (corset), selampai (shawl), sementing ringgit (coins attached to the rawai), gelang kaki (anklets) and buah pauh (olden day purse where they used to stash betel nuts and lime paste). 


 








I was advised by a mentor on how Indu Dara Insin Temaga would look like and I quote:
“ The real ngepan worn by Kumang and her sister Lulong, according to our Saribas/Saratok tradition is:
1.        Sugu pandak
2.        Necklaces made of silver buttons (marek Ubu) –
they NEVER wore marek empang
3.        Rawai tinggi from waist right up to the armpits just enough to cover the breast
4.        Kain bebuah pandak (above the knee)
5.        Three silver lampit
6.        Tumpak pirak
7.        Gelang kaki

This is the ngepan Iban for centuries (at least for Saribas tribe). If you dress this way, the old folks will remember that was the way they used to dress before the Second World War.” 

So point taken, advise adhered for this Borneo Hornbill Festival 2011 and off we go. It was a gamble for me and Susan as we would not know how people especially the Iban community would accept this style, Indu Dara Insin Temaga. However, with our strong determination to portray to the community how Saribas Iban would dress we went ahead with this idea.



D-day: 23 July 2011 (Satuday)
Location: MATIC, Ampang Kuala Lumpur
Emotion: Nervous with cold sweat

The Olden days Sea Dayak bride

The modern version of Sea Dayak bride

 

Being the Indu Dara Insin Temaga for almost 10 hours definitely paid off. Goddess Kumang indeed was smiling at me and Susan that night..We won the title..yeay!! Kumang Iban PWSKL 2011..It was overwhelming I must say…and surprised too because the community accepts the idea of Indu Dara Insin Temaga. We were glad to be able to show to the community and also the tourists the real ngepan Iban (Saribas tribe).


So what did I gained from entering this competition?


Of course experience - being onstage IS nerve-wrecking and I learned to be comfortable with my audience as in this kind of competition it is important to be able to "enchant" your audience. Throughout the process I begin to embrace my Iban culture even more strongly and I feel more connected to it.


I also gained more friends, now that I have more younger friends, so young I can call them my little brothers and sisters also some other friends older than I am whom I will always adore.

With my Manager, my dear friend lovely Susan Leo

Next year, I'll be crowning the next Kumang BHF and I hope that there will be unique and rare Iban costumes (as well as from other ethnicity) be revealed to the world.  I wish you ALL THE BEST and never give up on your quest to find the authentic look..remember RESEARCH, RESEARCH and RESEARCH...don't be despaired and discouraged if you can't find the Rawai Tinggi as there are also many other tribes of Iban..Look ahead, look far, the world is your oyster to discover its mysterious treasure..


With the blessings of Goddess Kumang I hope I am able to equip myself with more knowledge on Iban and spread it to the community.I'm proud to be Iban even though I have been far away from Sarawak since I was six years old, I'm glad to stay in touch with my culture and never at any single moment entering this competition a regret for me in fact I'm thankful to be given this opportunity... God Bless all of you...Ooohhaaa....


Our humble beginnings...

 

Beautiful Elizabeth Lenna

Keling Winner Mr. Ricky Kimwah

Robson Jelian Keling Iban

Leannie and Dessi

Mr.Leonard Yiu (owner of some of the accessories)

Aunty Patricia Momyus (Robson's Mom)

Blogger friend Medeline Prada

My Keling

All the photos are in my FB...feel free to drop by...
till then..we meet again in another post....